VOL.93/2026.04

A Journey through Seoul's Alleys with Tteokbokki

 

 

2026.02

 

 

Seoul Tteokbokki Encyclopedia: The Great Adventure,
- Written by Daemoheum Seoul Editorial Department, Published by Daemoheum Seoul

 

Tteokbokki, made by simmering chewy rice cakes and fish cakes in asweet and spicy gochujang sauce, is an iconicK-food representing Korea. A single plate of tteokbokki, enjoyed at snack bars in front of schools during one’s school days, holds flavors and stories that remain unforgettable long into adulthood.Seoul Tteokbokki Encyclopedia: The Great Adventure, published by Daemoheum Seoul, is a collection of local stories documenting the tastes and histories of these nostalgic tteokbokki shops. It introduces the signature menus of 114 long-standing tteokbokki spots in Seoul, along with the romantic stories of their neighborhoods. If you think tteokbokki has only one flavor, think again! The 114 varieties featured in the book possess their own unique taste and origin stories, as well as hidden secret recipes.The structure of the book is also interesting.

 

The first category introduced is the "school-front tteokbokki" shops. The spicy and sweet taste of tteokbokki that captivated students on their way home was, for some, the sole comfort that made them forget the boredom and weariness of school life. Baekbaek Bunsik in Gocheok-dong, which opened in 1980, derived its name from shortening the phrase "tteokbokki 100 (beak) won, dumplings 100 (baek) won". A plate of tteokbokki featuring rich wheat cakes and plenty of bouncy glass noodles, paired with a side of fried dumplings as crispy as crackers to dip in the sauce, creates a fantastic combination. On days when one‘s budget allows, adding a boiled egg and drenching it in the tteokbokki sauce is a small luxury to be enjoyed. Fried food (twigim) is the perfect partner that balances out the spiciness of the tteokbokki while enhancing the savory flavor and richness. The most popular fried items include dumplings filled with glass noodles, seaweed rolls (gimmari), and plump squid, though some shops use their own unique ingredients. For instiance, at Wow Shin-nae-tteok in Noryangjin, an area famous as a village for exam-takers, the “garlic fries" are a hit. These feature crispy on the outside and soft on the inside french fries generously topped with plenty of garlic and chili sauce.

 

At Jeil Bunsik in Mia-dong, which opened in 1977, the star attraction is the sweet potato fries—a worthy rival to the potato. As you enjoy tteokbokki and fried dishes, you might find yourself craving a refreshing broth to clear your throat. This is the perfect moment for fish cake (eomuk). While often used as an ingredient in tteokbokki, eomuk is also highly popular as a standalone menu item. A skewer of tender fish cake, simmered for hours, paired with a sip of the hot broth, offers a comforting heartiness that perfectly balances the lingering heat of the tteokbokki. For tteokbokki enthusiasts, another variation simply cannot be missed: jeukseok tteokbokki (Instant or on-the spot tteokbokki). Cooked directly at the table in a pot filled with rice cakes and ingredients, the flavor of the sauce becomes increasingly exquisite as it boils down. Tabong House near Kyung Hee University, boasting a 50- year history, offers an addictive flavor created by a blen of gochujang and chunjang (black bean paste), enriched by the subtle sweetness of cabbange and the sharp kick of black pepper. After fishing out rice cakes and ramen noodles from the bubbling pot, the true highlight is the fried rice cooked in the remaining sauce. As jeukseok tteokbokki is a meal meant to be savored slowly, the atmosphere inside these shops is distinct. Walls densely covered in customer graffiti, tables bearing the marks of time, and the sight of an old-fationed kitchen all feel like turning the pages of a memeory book.

 

Opened in 1988 near Ujangsan Station, Mokdong Bunsik features a second-floor attic space where customers take off their shoes to enter. This cozy spot has long served as a favorite hideout for students. As they sit huddled together, chatting about the weather and friends, the tteokbokki soon boils. Once the pot is empty in a flash, leaving only the broth, it is time to stir-fry rice. Topped with seaweed flakes and sesame oil, the finished fried rice fills the room with a rich, nutty aroma. Meongtongguri Jeukseok Tteokbokki in Gongneung-dong is famous for its harmonious blend of East and West, adding cheese, perilla oil, and kimchi to its fried rice. The book also introduces a rich array of side dishes that complete tteokbokki as a full meal. All-time favorites include gimbap and sundae (Korean blood sausage). Filled with humble ingredients, Gimbap is excellent for satisfying any remaining hunger. Sundae, which offers various cuts to choose from, is the hero that adds a savory, meaty flavor to tteokbokki. Seohung Hypermarket Tteokbokki in Hwigyeong-dong is famous for its handmade sundae, generously packed with fresh ingredients like cheongyang chili peppers, onions, carrots, and chives. Parasol Bunsik near Nowon Station and Miso House in Gubanpo are known for serving deep-friedsundae. Ohter popular sides that have emerged with the changing times incldue corn dogs, jjolmyeon (spicy cold chewy noodles), and so-tteok (sausage and rice cake skewers). Finally, when you crave something sweet and cool after the spicy kick oftteokbokki, finishing the meal with patbingsu (shaved ice with red beans), soft serve, or slushies makes for the perfect combination.

 

 

What Seoul Tteokbokki Encyclopedia: The Great Adventure presents is more than just food and menus; it is a collage of stories and scenes accumulated in each shop. Diverse locations across Seoul—beside railroad tracks, inside bustling markets, at subway stations, in front of schools, and near amusement parks—invite readers with their own unique warmth and character. If you love to travel and are curious about the diverse flavors of tteokbokki, it is recommended to explore every corner of Seoul's alleys with Seoul Tteokbokki Encyclopedia: The Great Adventure. You will encounter a veritable feast of this soul food—from the chewy texture of spicy-sweet tteokbokki made with heart, to the warm Korean affection (jeong) that soothes the traveler's soul.

 

 

 

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Written by Jung­Ah Shin (Culture Critic, Adjunct Professor, Division of Performing Arts, Baekseok Arts University)

A TV documentary writer who has scipted over 400 episodes, the author is deeply interested in the intersection of cultural content and humanistic imagination. With a love for the stories of people and the world embedded in media, she believes in the power of good content to change the world. Major publications include Italic A, Elderly outside Media, Living with AI,, New Media and Story-doing, Cultural Content and Transmedia, and Media Literacy Education for Digital Literacy, etc.